How to Grow Laurel Plants: Year-Round Herb Garden Staple

How to grow a laurel plant straight from your yard—year after year. 🌿 I’ve grown this fragrant evergreen for five seasons, and it’s become my go-to for both cooking and garden borders. The secret isn’t complicated: it’s about matching its Mediterranean roots to your growing conditions. Laurel thrives in well-draining soil and full sun, but it’s tough enough to handle partial shade. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry—overwatering is the #1 killer. Prune lightly after harvests to encourage bushier growth, and you’ll have fresh leaves for soups, stews, and garnishes without ever buying a bundle from the store. The payoff? A lush, glossy plant that smells amazing when brushed against, plus the satisfaction of growing your own culinary herb. Even better, it stays evergreen through winter, making it a standout in any garden. Works as a hedge, potted plant, or kitchen garden staple. Here’s how to get started without the guesswork!

What you need

Step-by-step instructions for growing laurel plants

Laurel thrives with patience and the right conditions—here’s how to cultivate it like a pro.

Laurel loves bright, indirect light—think 4-6 hours of morning sun with afternoon shade, especially in hotter climates. A south- or east-facing window works well indoors, while outdoors, it thrives under dappled sunlight or in partial shade. Avoid harsh afternoon rays, which can scorch its glossy leaves.

Use well-draining, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0-7.0). A mix of 50% potting soil, 30% perlite, and 20% compost keeps roots aerated and prevents waterlogging. Laurel hates soggy feet, so if your soil drains poorly, amend it with sand or coconut coir. Test the soil’s moisture by sticking your finger 1 inch deep—it should feel slightly damp but not wet.

Plant your laurel in a container at least 12 inches deep and wide (or in the ground with 3 feet of spacing between plants). Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and place the plant so the top of the root ball sits level with the soil surface. Laurel roots are sensitive—don’t bury the stem too deep, or it’ll rot.

Water deeply immediately after planting to settle the soil around the roots, then let the top 1 inch of soil dry out before watering again. Overwatering is the fastest way to kill laurel—yellowing leaves or wilting are red flags. Mulch with 2 inches of organic mulch (like bark or straw) to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.

Laurel prefers moderate moisture—water when the top 1-2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch. In summer, this might mean every 5-7 days; in winter, every 10-14 days. Check the soil before watering—if it’s still damp, wait. Underwatering causes leaf drop, while overwatering leads to root rot.

Feed your laurel once in spring with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer (like 10-10-10). Too much fertilizer burns roots, so dilute it to half-strength. Skip fertilizing in fall and winter—laurel grows slowly then and doesn’t need extra nutrients. You’ll know it’s happy when new leaves emerge bright green and glossy in spring.

Prune laurel after flowering (if applicable) or in early spring to shape it and encourage dense foliage. Use clean, sharp pruners to cut back 1/3 of the plant’s height if it’s leggy. Avoid cutting into old wood—laurel struggles to regrow from bare stems. Trim any dead, yellow, or crossing branches first.

For a hedge, prune twice a year: once in late spring and again in early summer. Shape with light cuts to avoid stressing the plant. Laurel responds well to pruning but won’t tolerate harsh cuts. If you see new growth at the tips, you’re pruning correctly—old, woody stems won’t sprout new leaves.

Laurel is evergreen but needs protection in winter if temperatures drop below 20°F. Move potted plants to a cool, bright spot (like a garage or shed) or wrap the pot in bubble wrap to insulate roots. If outdoors, mulch heavily (4-6 inches) and group plants together to share warmth.

Reduce watering in winter—laurel goes semi-dormant. Water only when the soil is completely dry (every 3-4 weeks). Watch for brown leaf tips, which signal dry air. Mist leaves occasionally or place a pebble tray with water nearby to boost humidity. With proper care, your laurel will reward you with lush, fragrant foliage year after year.

Tips & tricks for perfect laurel plant growth

Real talk: The difference between a thriving laurel and one that struggles often comes down to these small but critical details.

Lighting Strategy: Those 4-6 hours of morning sun are non-negotiable, but here's what nobody tells you—if you're growing indoors, rotate your plant every 2-3 weeks so all sides get even light exposure. Laurel will lean toward the light source, and consistent rotation keeps it balanced. I've seen plants grow lopsided when left in one spot too long, which weakens the structure.

Soil Mix Secrets: When mixing your 50% potting soil, 30% perlite, and 20% compost, sift the perlite first to remove any fine particles that could compact. The goal is to keep that mix fluffy—think "cloud-like" texture when you hold it. I learned this the hard way after compacting the soil too much, which led to root rot despite my careful watering habits.

Watering Rescue: If your laurel's leaves start yellowing between veins (a classic overwatering sign), stop watering immediately and let the top 2 inches of soil dry out completely before trying again. Then, repot into fresh, well-draining soil mix. I've revived several plants this way that were nearly lost—just give it time to recover in a bright spot with reduced watering.

Pruning Precision: When you're cutting back 1/3 of the plant's height in Step 4, always make your cuts just above a leaf node where new growth can emerge. Avoid cutting into old, woody stems—they won't regenerate. I use a small white marker to trace where I'll cut before making the actual snip, which helps me visualize the final shape better.

Frequently asked questions

Got questions about growing laurel? You’re not alone! Here are some of the most common concerns—and their answers—to help you cultivate a thriving plant with confidence.

How fast does a laurel plant grow?

Laurel plants grow at a moderate pace, typically adding 12–24 inches per year under ideal conditions. Young plants may grow faster, while mature specimens slow down. Pruning regularly encourages bushier, denser growth. Patience is key—these evergreens are built to last!

Can laurel survive winter frost?

Most laurel varieties (like Laurus nobilis) are hardy to USDA Zones 7–10 and can tolerate light frost. However, young plants or severe freezes (below 15°F) may damage leaves. Protect tender plants with mulch or a burlap wrap. If you’re in a colder zone, grow laurel in containers and move it indoors during winter.

Why are my laurel leaves turning yellow?

Yellowing leaves usually signal overwatering, poor drainage, or nutrient deficiency. Check soil moisture—laurel prefers it slightly dry between waterings. Yellow edges may also mean chlorosis (iron deficiency), common in alkaline soils. Amend soil with chelated iron or compost, and ensure pots have drainage holes.

Can I grow laurel indoors?

Laurel thrives indoors near bright, indirect light (e.g., a south-facing window). Use a well-draining potting mix and a pot with drainage. Keep humidity moderate and prune regularly to maintain shape. Just avoid drafts—laurel dislikes sudden temperature swings.

What’s the difference between laurel and bay leaves?

How do I propagate laurel from cuttings?

Propagating laurel is easy! Take 4–6 inch cuttings from healthy stems in spring or summer. Remove lower leaves, dip in rooting hormone, and plant in moist perlite or sand. Keep cuttings in indirect light and maintain humidity (use a plastic bag). Roots should form in 4–8 weeks.